RIVERS WE FISH

We don’t roam the state like most Montana outfitters and guides. We’ve got world class fishing - and one of the longest seasons in the state - right out our back door here in Craig. Our guests feel the same, and they never ask us to take them anywhere else. While nearly all of our guided fishing takes place on the Missouri River, we do have a couple of alternatives, and they are two of the most beautiful trout streams in Montana. The nearby Blackfoot and Dearborn Rivers begin within miles of each other on the Continental divide just west of Craig. While the sources are similar, these two river systems couldn’t be more different. The fishing on these two freestone rivers isn’t great by Montana standards, but would be phenomenal in most other states. Between the Missouri, Blackfoot, Dearborn - and their tributaries - we think we have an incredibly diverse group of fisheries that can keep anglers busy for weeks.

Missouri River

INTRO | We’re often asked, “What’s the best trout stream in Montana?”. It’s an absurd question. There is no “best” trout stream in Montana. What defines a favorite river will be different for every angler. And while each may have his or her “favorite”, we think few would argue that the Missouri River is the “most consistent” fishery in Montana. It has consistent fish size and numbers, consistent hatches and predictable flows. It has the most reliable dry fly fishing in the region, and there’s not a day of the year when a nymph rig won’t catch a few fish. It’s a river that consistently produces large trout; arguably the largest “average size” trout in Montana. Dry fly, nymph and streamer fishing are almost always in play, and there is a reason the Missouri is the “Trout Spey” center of the West. The Missouri River is a world class fishery, and most experienced anglers consider it a “must-do” at least once in your life.

WHERE | The longest river system in the US, the Missouri, is formed at the junction of the Madison, Gallatin and Jefferson rivers near Three Forks, Montana. From here, the river flows north for nearly 100 miles - and through 4 reservoirs - before emerging from the tailwaters of Holter Dam. The Missouri River courses for over 700 miles through Montana and on to the Gulf of Mexico, but the primary fly fishing venue is the 35 miles from Holter Dam to the town of Cascade. This section lies between the cities of Helena and Great Falls, and runs alongside Interstate 15. Trout can still be found below Cascade, but numbers quickly decrease, as does access.

PHYSICAL | Long, broad and slow moving runs are interrupted by mellow riffles and numerous islands as the river slides gently from Holter Dam to Craig. The river here is big - 100 yards across - and is characterized by grassy banks with a bottom of fine gravel that bright green weed beds anchor in. It lacks definition here, and is hard to read for newcomers. Below Craig, the river enters “the Canyon”, where huge limestone cliffs and rock formations provide incredible scenery for anglers and deep, shady lies for trout. The Dearborn River also joins the Missouri in this reach, adding volume to the river, along with an increased diversity in insect life. The river is more defined through here, with sharper banks, defined drop-offs and the occasional mid-river boulder. The Canyon ends under the dramatic “Tower Rock” at Lone Pine rapids, a significant campsite of the Lewis & Clark Expedition. From here, the river broadens and slows as it spills out onto the Great Plains of eastern Montana. This lower section offers great big sky views, abundant wildlife, and exceptional dry fly water as it meanders to the small town of Cascade. The many channels and islands are extremely wadeable, and the trout often hold in shallow and slow moving water.

THE FISH | The Missouri River is primarily a Rainbow and Brown Trout fishery, with the former outnumbering the latter about 3:1. Both species inhabit all stretches of the river in pretty much equal numbers, though average sizes for both seem slightly larger on the upper stretch. Montana does not plant trout in rivers (they do in some lakes) so all of our trout are wild, and they act like it. Rainbow trout average 14-20”, and seldom exceed 22”. Brown trout are slightly larger averaging 16-22”, and it’s not surprising to land a “2-footer”, sometimes larger. While we don’t like to use the traditional “fish-per-mile” numbers that Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks likes to publish, let’s just say that there are plenty of trout in the Missouri River. Native Whitefish also inhabit the Missouri, though they are not as numerous - and much larger - than found in most other Montana rivers. Trout are by far the primary quarry, but fly and spin anglers also hunt for Walleye, Burbot, Carp, and more recently, Northern Pike.

WHEN | The Missouri River is fishable all year long, but the primary fly fishing season is from April through November. During this period, the river sees some of the strongest Mayfly and Caddis hatches in the western U.S. These hatches begin in late March and come to a crescendo in late-June and early-July . As the summer progresses, hatches slowly subside, but are replaced with ample tererrestrital insects including hoppers and ants. Angler numbers can be tied to hatch strength, and July is not only the buggiest month, but the busiest. While mid-summer traditionally offers the best dry fly fishing, hatches occur from mid-April to mid-November on an almost daily basis. And when the hatches aren’t epic, the subsurface nymph and streamer fishing often is. So there’s really no “best” time to fish the Missouri, but there can be best times for certain disciplines.

TACTICS | You’ll often hear that the Missouri River is a”technical” fishery, and it can be. It can also be so easy it’s embarrassing, and it can be so tough you’d bet your new drift boat that there are no fish in it. All methods do catch fish here, and fishing is done both from drift boats and on foot. Many consider it a “tailwater” fishery, but it doesn’t quite share the same characteristics with true tailwaters and has a bit of moody freestone DNA. Nymphing is the most popular method, as it seems to have become nearly everywhere. A simple right-angle nymph rig is common, and knowing the right depth is key. Understanding what the fish are feeding on - and why - is critical to success. Dry fly fishing is technical, requiring long leaders, accurate casts, and correct imitations. Downstream dry fly fishing is the norm. Streamer fishing runs the gamut, but locals tend to use smaller streamers that imitate baitfish, crawdads, and other real food sources. The “4th Method”, spey fishing uses both Skagit and Scandi techniques and equipment, while swinging everything form #16 soft hackles to # 2 articulated streamers.

  • You’ll likely be nymphing deep in slow water with midge patterns and ‘pink stuff’. Streamer fishing and swinging flies can be decent, but fridgid water temps can make it hard to entice fish. Warmer, cloudy afternoons can trigger good streamer and dry fly fishing. Dry fly fishing with Midge clusters is a possibility, and chances increase the later into spring we go. Weather will be cold, and the water colder.

  • Transition time as the bugs begin to hatch and streamflows will begin to increase at some point. Plan on excellent nymph fishing with pink stuff and patterns that imitate early season hatches. Streamer fishing with leeches and streamers in slow, deep water should be excellent. Possible dry fly fishing with Midges, Skwalas and Blue-winged Olives. Streamflows need to stay below 6000cfs lower for good dry fly fishing.

  • If the water is low May can see great dry fly fishing with March Brown’s, Mothers Day Caddis, BWO’s and Midges. If the water is high, the streamer fishing can be excellent using flashy patterns tight to the bank. The nymping will be good either way, typically using pink scuds, red worms, and a wider variety of Beadhead patterns. The first excellent hatches of the year occur in May. It’s one of our favorite months, and if you don’t care how it’s done, it might be the best month of the year.

  • The beginning of “prime time” as PMD’s typically hatch in the first week of June. Caddis follow, and fish begin to pod up, as do anglers. By the end of the month, the rive is often as busy as it gets. If we are going to experience a big runoff period, it’s generally this month. Nymph fishing is spectacular in June, using PMD and Caddis nymphs. Streamer fishing can be spectacular, though few do it as everything else is so good.. There’s a reason it’s crowded.

  • A continuation of June with PMD’s and Caddis being the main players. As the month progresses, Trico’s become more important. Fising is still excellent though a bit more technical - meaning tougher. Lower flows, smaller tippets and tiny flies become the norm. Terrestrials become a factor, with Ant and hopper patterns playing an important role in the afternoons.

  • Mayflies begin to fizzle a bit, though Trico’s remain important. Callibaetis play a minor but important role, as can Pseudocleon’s. Hopper fishing can be excellent, especially with a breeze in the afternoon. Streamer fishing is usually excellent, but few people try it. Drifting weeds can become an issue in late summer, sometimes making certain runs or even section tough to fish. The good news? Pressure can be much lower than June and July.

  • On paper, September is the same as August in terms of flows and daytime temps. But the days shorten, and nightime lows fall. This has a cooling effect on the river, and reinvigorates the trout. Afternoon fishing tends to improve dramatically. Caddis hatches have been booming the last few Septembers and a skittering brown caddis can do wonders. An excellent month for throwing big flashy streamers.

  • Streamers in the morning, dries in the afternoon. Nymphing good all day. BWO’s become the predominant hatch, but the resurgent fall Caddis hang on if it’s warm. October Caddis can be important. Trout Spey starts to ramp up and by November it’s peaking. Novemeber is big game rifle hunting season in Montana, leaving the rivers empty. Rainbow trout are at their peak size and weight in the fall. Brown’s are angry.

  • Swinging wth spey rods or nymphing, it’s your choice. The swing bite is typically excellent, and water temperatures will remain hgh enough for active fish and flating lines until Christmas. Nymphing from the boat should be great, as can streamer fishing. Cold windy weather is your enemy.

Dearborn River

INTRO | The Dearborn River might be the most beautiful float trip in Montana. Along with that incredible scenery, it offers some decent fishing during the short early summer float season. The lower canyon section of the Dearborn twists and turns its way through towering cliffs and unique rock formations to its confluence with the Missouri River just downstream from Craig. The environment and scenery rival the famous Smith River, but is arguably more interesting and often quieter. There are even a few rapids that add a little excitement to the day. It takes a very full day to float this 20+ mile section of river, and once you launch you’re committed. The Dearborn flows through mostly undeveloped private land, and there are no access points until you reach the Missouri River.

WHERE | The Dearborn River is born west of Craig in the Scapegoat Wilderness Area. Flowing off the east slopes of the Continental divide, it grows quickly as it picks up snowmelt from numerous small tributaries. After emerging from the Wilderness at the dramatic “Devil’s Glen”, it flows through remote foothill ranch country before dropping through an incredible canyon towards its confluence with the Missouri River. There are technically 3 floats you can tackle. The upper two floats - while beautiful - have low trout populations, rough boat launches, and are not nearly as popular as the lower “canyon” section. This lower section of the Dearborn has been referred to as a “de-facto wilderness”, flowing entirely through private land and a deep canyon without public access. No cell phone service, roads or people for the first 10 miles, it truly has a feeling of remoteness. The river plunges through drops under towering cliffs. Wildlife is abundant in this undisturbed setting, and it’s not unusual to spot Elk, Deer, Moose, Otters and Bald Eagles along the way. The final 10 miles see the river mellow, though the geology does not. Remote off-grid summer cabins dot the hillside meadows. Not quite as remote, but still incredibly beautiful.

PHYSICAL | Striking cliffs, dark pine forests and natural meadows combine to create perfect surroundings. The river plunges through drops under towering cliffs. Wildlife is abundant in this undisturbed setting, and it’s not unusual to spot Elk, Deer, Moose, Otters and Bald Eagles along the way. The final 10 miles see the river mellow, though the geology does not. Remote off-grid summer cabins dot the hillside meadows. Not quite as remote, but still incredibly beautiful. The river itself is on the small side, typically running 300-900 cfs and 50-100 feet wide. The river is characterized by a pool-and-drop structure, and is full of sheer walls and radical twists and turns, require attention by the oarsmen or woman. Occasionally the canyon opens up to lengthy riffles with open meadows before turning a corner into another tight section shaded by limestone walls. It’s an intimate place, and you’ll often see the trout you didn’t catch as you float over them. There are a couple of technical drops on the Dearborn, and we wouldn’t recommend it for rookie rowers, especially at higher flows in colder weather.

THE FISH | Both Rainbow and Brown trout inhabit the Dearborn, along with Mountain Whitefish and the occasional Brook Trout. The Dearborn has great water and decent hatches, but suffers from a somewhat small and transient population of trout. Some days it seems loaded with nice Browns, and others you’ll find nothing but 10 inch Rainbows. And then there’s days that produce nothing at all. Most Rainbow trout are 10-14”, though occasional larger specimens are caught. Brown Trout are often larger, and it’s not uncommon to encounter fish past the 20” mark. Pay attention and capitalize on all opportunities!

WHEN | The Dearborn opens for fishing on the 3rd Saturday in May, and during normal years the floating is done by the 4th of July. The first two weeks can be very busy when the floating conditions are prime. We consider flows of 300cfs to be the minimum, and above 900cfs the river is way too pushy, making for crappy fishing conditions and potentially dangerous floating. After float season, you can wade fish from the few access points at highway crossings, or hike into the wilderness area. It’s not uncommon for the Dearborn to be under “hoot-owl” restrictions when the water gets too warm in mid-summer.

TACTICS | Fishing comes at you fast on the Dearborn, and identifying likely spots before you get to them is critical. Because the float is so long, you don’t really have time to stop and do any problem solving. You hardly have time to change flies. So it’s really a venue where you choose a method and stick with it. Our favorite techniques are streamer fishing or Dry/Dropper fishing with large attractors. Indicator nymphing can be problematic as the depth changes dramatically and often, and the rocky bottom likes to eat flies. Dry fly patterns typically involve Salmonfly or Golden Stone imitations, with a medium sized BH dropper. Occasionally, when the weather is right, you’ll encounter strong mayfly or caddis hatches that make targeting risers possible. While you occasionally find yourself anchored up on some fish - or a fishy spot - that’s the exception rather than the rule. You’re more likely to continue pounding the banks for miles at a time. Most of the land along the river is private, so the boat will be your home for the day. We use rafts to float the Dearborn, but at higher flows a drift boat can be used. The put-in at 287 requires you to drag your boat over a fence and a short distance to the river.

Dearborn Guided Trips

We do offer guided fly fishing trips on the Dearborn, but guessing what the conditions will be in advance is impossible. We recommend mentioning it to our staff when you book a Missouri River trip, and if the conditions are right when you’re here, your guide will make it happen, like the night before. If it’s decided the Dearborn is not fishable, you will have to be content fishing on the world famous Missouri River. Your guide will make the call.

If you do decide to tackle the Dearborn, understand that you will likely be sacrificing fish size and numbers vs. the Missouri River. You need to want to see it, and explore something new. Fish numbers cannot be the driving factor when fishing the Dearborn.

Also, remember to bring proper storm gear, as it’s common to experience early summer thunderstorms and rain events while floating the Dearborn. Extra snacks, sunscreen, allergy medicine, etc. are all a good idea on this long day trip

Blackfoot River

INTRO | The “Big” Blackfoot River was immortalized in Norman Maclean’s novelette A River Run’s Through It. While many Montanan’s blame the resulting movie for our often overcrowded trout rivers, no-one denies that the Blackfoot River is an incredible place. It belongs on every anglers to-do list. An un-damed freestone river, the Blackfoot is diverse in character, fish species and hatches. Like many west-side freestones, the fishing can be inconsistent, but when it’s on you don’t want to miss it. And if it’s not, you’ll enjoy one legendary and beautiful Montana trout stream.

WHERE | Located between Craig and Missoula, the Blackfoot drains the western slope of the Continental Divide, flowing from Rogers Pass to its meeting with the Clark Fork near Missoula. The river generally follows Hwy 200, but is rarely in view of it. The Blackfoot Valley is gorgeous country comprised of scattered timber, meadows and ranches, framed by the Mission Mountains and the southern edge of the Bob Marshall Wilderness. Wildlife abounds here, and besides the usual suspects, you could possibly sight a Grizzly Bear or Mountain Lion in the valley. The most popular floating stretches of the Blackfoot are near the town of Ovando, which requires about a 1-1.5 hour drive from either Craig, Helena or Missoula. There are many other stretches of the Blackfoot, and all are popular at different times of the year. The Blackfoot isn’t a secret, and when the conditions are prime, the river can get quite crowded, often with fly anglers on the upper stretches, and the recreational “splash & giggle” crowd packs the lower river near Missoula.

PHYSICAL | The Blackfoot is a medium sized river, with good fishing flows in the 1200-2500 cfs range. A wide variety of fishing water includes steep, timbered canyon walls and plunge pools that give way to meadow stretches interrupted by the occasion technical rapid. Though you’re constantly floating through private land, much of it feels like wild public lands. The famous and often busiest section is a canyon stretch near Ovando. Incredible scenery is found around every bend here, as the river flows through crystal clear pools with rock shelfs, boulder gardens and the occasionally sandy beach. The Blackfoot typically has high banks and flows through heavily forested country. It’s definitely the antithesis of the Missouri River.

THE FISH | The Blackfoot offers a smorgasbord when it comes to trout species. Cutthroat, Bull Trout and Whitefish are the natives, and can be found in abundance. Introduced Rainbow, Brown and Brook trout can also be found, and it’s not unheard of to catch all of these species in a single day. Natives rule, and we love to see the slow rise of a big Westslope Cutthroat. As the primary target on the Blackfoot, “Cutties” are found throughout the system - including all tributaries - and are found in trophy dimensions for the species. Bull Trout are typically seen, either laying on the bottom, or when they attack a smaller trout on the end of your line. Rainbow and Brown trout are found in moderate numbers, increasing as you get further down the river.

WHEN | Pre-runoff fishing begins in April, and provides some decent fishing until runoff, typically occurring in May and/or June. When the Blackfoot is in runoff, it is generally un-fishable. As the river begins to fall back into shape, anglers immediately are drawn to the impending Salmonfly hatch. Salmonflies and Golden Stones hatch into July. While there are a variety of mayfly and caddis hatches throughout the summer, the “Spruce Moth” hatch is the next big event. Spruce Moth’s are an aquatic moth that fish cannot resist. This hatch provides some great mid-day fishing in late summer and early fall. Autumn fishing is great on the Blackfoot, but by late September the water cools significantly at night, leaving only a few hours in the afternoon that are productive.

TACTICS | Like most western freestone rivers, the dry/dropper rig is the most popular way to fish the Blackfoot. A wide variety of stonefly, terrestrial and attractor patterns are used as a top fly, and an equally diverse assortment of beachhead dropper are used on the point.Streamer fishing is also popular, especially during the pre-runoff period. Keep in mind that intentionally fishing for - or targeting - Bull Trout is illegal. The best opportunities to target surface feeding fish is from late-August through early October, when Spruce Moth’s and a mixed bag of Trico’s, BWO’s and Mahogany Dun’s bring fish up to the surface on warm afternoons. The Blackfoot ices up in the winter and get’s very little fishing pressure.

OTHER RIVERS & LAKES

Besides the great fishing to be found on the Missouri, Blackfoot and Dearborn, we have many other venues for those who don’t mind exploring the plains of north-central Montana. South and west of Craig will get you to other famous Montana fishing regions in Butte, Bozeman and Missoula. North and East, however, offer endless miles of dirt roads that can lead to places that see little fishing pressure.

The world famous Smith River is nearby, and provides world-class scenery and multi-day floating along with very good fishing. Floating the Smith involves difficult to get permits, or hiring an outfitter for your group. We won’t expand on it here - there is loads of information online - but a Smith trip is considered a “must-do” by many.

Glacier National Park is only a couple hours to our north, and while the fishing isn’t world-class, the scenery is. We prefer the east-side, which offers some good lakes to fish and a few streams. Both St. Mary’s and Many Glacier entrances have multiple fishing opportunities.

Adjacent to Glacier Park, the massive Blackfeet Nation (picture right) provides great Stillwater angling, along with a few Grizzly infested streams to explore. The famous big prairie lakes are most popular early and late in the season.

The Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex lies just to our West encompassing 1.5 million acres of pristine habitat. It also provides hikers and backpackers with miles of rivers and creeks full of native Cutthroat and Bull Trout. “The Bob” has several main entry points, and the nearest to Craig is at Benchmark.

On your way to the Wilderness boundary, you might pass Nilan Reservoir, Willow Creek Reservoir and the Sun River, or Brown’s Lake and the numerous headwaters streams of the Blackfoot, all of which provide good - and sometimes great - trout fishing. We don’t guide these areas, but they are excellent places to explore on foot or via packraft.

We have some great carp, bass, pike and walleye fishing on lower sections of the Missouri, as well as the many regional lakes and reservoirs. Numerous pothole lake found north and east of Great Falls provide all kinds of opportunities for Pike, Walleye, Carp and sometimes trout.

Our small stream fishing is pretty good, though many Eastside creeks have short windows of great fishing before becoming too low during the hot summer months. Make sure you access small streams legally when exploring. Most of the good creek fishing in eastern Montana occurs on private land.

Dan Kauffman with guide Jordan Running Wolf on a Blackfeet lake.